Thursday, 15 October 2009

Nikon D3s specification: New Low Light Beast from Nikon


Nikon really did his homework this time...even better than much praised D3
Here come the low light beast with ISO 102400. you can shoot in dark place and look like afternoon:p

Here's a copy of the feature and spec from Nikon website:

Main Features


  • ISO performance: ISO 12800 as standard, expandable to ISO equivalent of 102400 (Hi 3)
  • Nikon FX-format CMOS image sensor with 12.1 effective megapixels
  • Improved D-Movie function including High-Sensitivity Movie mode and flicker reduction function
  • Nikon’s Integrated Dust Reduction System including Image Sensor Cleaning function
  • Incorporates Nikon’s original EXPEED digital image processing
  • Active D-Lighting with bracketing for up to 5 frames
  • Picture Control: Standard, Vivid, Neutral and Monochrome (Landscape and Portrait can be downloaded from Nikon website)
  • Quick response with approx. 0.12 seconds start-up time and approx. 0.04 seconds shutter-release time lag
  • 9-frames-per-second shooting rate in FX format, 11 fps in DX crop (CIPA Guidelines)
  • Nikon’s original Scene Recognition System, utilizing 1,005-pixel RGB sensor, for more accurate autofocus, auto exposure, i-TTL flash control and auto white balance
  • Multi-CAM 3500FX AF sensor module featuring 51 AF points
  • Viewfinder with approx. 100% frame coverage and approx. 0.7x magnification in FX format
  • Durable shutter unit proven by 300,000 cycles of testing on fully assembled camera
  • Intelligent power management that lets you shoot up to approx. 4,200 frames per charge (based on CIPA Standards)
  • Easy-to-access Live View modes with dedicated button
  • Quiet Shutter-release mode for nonintrusive shooting
  • High-definition (approx. 921k-dot), 170˚ viewing angle, 3-in. VGA LCD monitor with tempered glass
Specifications






Effective pixels

12.1 million

Image sensor

CMOS sensor, 36.0 x 23.9 mm; total pixels: 12.87 million; Nikon FX format

Image size (pixels)

FX format (36 x 24): 4,256 x 2,832 [L], 3,184 x 2,120 [M], 2,128 x 1,416 [S]
1.2x (30 x 20): 3,552 x 2,368 [L], 2,656 x 1,776 [M], 1,776 x 1,184 [S]

DX format (24 x 16): 2,784 x 1,848 [L], 2,080 x 1,384 [M], 1,392 x 920 [S]

5:4 (30 x 24): 3,552 x 2,832 [L], 2,656 x 2,120 [M], 1,776 x 1,416 [S]

Sensitivity

ISO 200 to 12800 in steps of 1/3, 1/2 or 1 EV; can also be set to approx. 0.3, 0.5, 0.7 or 1 EV (ISO 100 equivalent) below ISO 200 or to approx. 0.3, 0.5, 0.7, 1, 2 or 3 EV (ISO 102400 equivalent) above ISO 12800; auto ISO sensitivity control available

Storage media

CompactFlash (Type I, compliant with UDMA)

Monitor

3-in., approx. 921k-dot (VGA), 170-degree wide-viewing-angle, 100% frame coverage, low-temperature polysilicon TFT LCD with brightness adjustment

Exposure metering

TTL full-aperture exposure metering using 1,005-pixel RGB sensor
1) Matrix: 3D color matrix metering II (type G and D lenses); color matrix metering II (other CPU lenses); color matrix metering (non-CPU lenses if user provides lens data)
2) Center-Weighted: Weight of 75% given to 12-mm circle in center of frame, diameter of circle can be changed to 8, 15 or 20 mm, or weighting can be based on average of entire frame (non-CPU lenses use 12-mm circle or average of entire frame)
3) Spot: Meters 4-mm circle (about 1.5% of frame) centered on selected focus point (on center focus point when non-CPU lens is used)

Exposure modes

1) Programmed Auto (P) with flexible program
2) Shutter-Priority Auto (S)
3) Aperture-Priority Auto (A)
4) Manual (M)

Interface

Hi-Speed USB

Power sources

One Rechargeable Li-ion Battery EN-EL4a/EL4, Quick Charger MH-22/MH-21, AC Adapter EH-6 (optional)

Dimensions (W x H x D)

Approx. 159.5 x 157 x 87.5 mm (6.3 x 6.2 x 3.4 in.)

Weight

Approx. 1,240 g (2 lb. 12 oz.) without battery, memory card, body cap or monitor cover
Why bother with high megapixel if you don't really need it...high ISO is far more important
If you need megapixel king, then use the big brother: D3x

Wednesday, 23 September 2009

Which Nikon Camera?


There's so many new type of Nikon DSLR camera lately...and sometime it's confusing for those whe planned to buy a new camera.

The price tag also seems to elevated somehow, considering the minor enhancement from the previous model.

Nikon marketing seems to follow Canon style these days...so many model came out at least twice a year? Well, in this digital age camera body do have some impact on the picture result...but is it really that significant?

If you planned to buy a DSLR, be careful don't be fooled by marketing campaign of OEM which try to get as much as money they can by adding some fancy feature to elevate the price.

Here's some consideration before buying:

How many mega pixels is required? CCD or CMOS?

10 - 12 megapixels is enough!

except if you planned to print your photo in billboard size. --> you better buy medium format or D3x for this

everytime new camera is launched, vendor always try to fool consumer by adding megapixels...
I've used my D200 for 2 years (only 10.2 Mp) and it still provide very good picture everytime. Whether you need to print in big size or not...it is enough. Do you get better picture by adding more megapixels?
i think picture composition and exposure lesson will do much better in improving our photo result than adding megapixels!
"But how if i need to crop the picture to get closer look?"....hey man, if you planned to get closer shot, do me a favor please: buy tele lens, and you will got high quality picture instead of cropped image which is piece of sh**:)
Sensor does have limitation, the more pixel cranked in the small sensor size, the more noise will came out and less color gathering ability is expected and at certain level it will be visible.
Each photosensor in every pixels has a light gathering optics that determine how the picture result would be.
Of course the sensor technology have evolved to minimize the loss, but the limit does exist.

Currently many camera have used CMOS instead of CCD, is it true that CMOS is better than CCD? What is CMOS and CCD?

CCD is charge-coupled device and CMOS is complimentary metal-oxide semiconductor.
In a CCD device, the charge is actually transported across the chip and read at one corner of the array. An analog-to-digital converter turns each pixel's value into a digital value. In most CMOS devices, there are several transistors at each pixel that amplify and move the charge using more traditional wires. The CMOS approach is more flexible because each pixel can be read individually. Both is capable in providing high quality image!


Picture of CCD sensor


CCD production requires higher cost than CMOS, beside that CCD require higher power consumption than CMOS.

That's why camera manufacturer prefer CMOS than CCD.

why nikon opted for CCD at their first DSLR?

Nikon is not a sensor manufacturer, they worked with Sony which has long history in making CCD sensor, that's why the use Sony's CCD technology at the very beginning which is more cost effective in terms of research and design.

For image quality...it depends on the color separation mechanism (there's bayern filter which is the most commonly used, foveon X3 by sigma, JFET for Nikon D2H etc.) and image processing algorithm, not CCD/ CMOS, so please forget about CCD vs CMOS hoax.



Better LCD and Live View feature

Beside the megapixel boost, this also one of the camera manufacturer selling point for their new product.
Does better LCD helps you create better picture? For me: NO
Does Live View helps you create better picture? YES and NO...depend how you will use it.
Please remember that photography is not yesterdays technology, it already started centuries ago...and at that time there's no live view...but the picture result is still outstanding.
As long as you can use your view finder well...you'll get a good picture.



Autofocus point

Here's another vendors selling point...Autofocus
Do you shoot lot of action photo or moving subject?
If not then please skip this feature. If yes...this feature is important for you!
I shoot mostly landscape and human interest
So even 9 autofocus point is more than enough for me, i always use my center autofocus point whenever i shoot...simply because i don't have time to play with the button trying to move the autofocus point. I'm afraid that the moment will be gone away.
Especially when you're a landscape photographer...autofocus is simply useless, because you will play a lot with hyperfocal distance (more about this: please read http://www.dofmaster.com/hyperfocal.html)



So what is important in buying a camera body????

Here's what important for me:

  • Quick Access: when you shoot fleeting moment or fast changing environment, you'll need a quickly adjustable camera parameter (exposure, white balance, iso, mirror lock up etc.). You will miss the moment if you keep busy with your menu, trying to access those parameter. Nikon semi-pro DSLR usually have buttons for every parameter right in the camera body, while for the entry level you'll have to struggle with the menu everytime you need to adjust the parameter. That's what differ semi-pro and entry level camera

  • Comfort: when you travelling whole day and you have to keep your camera ready, you'll know what i meant...comfortable can be from size, weight, ergonomics etc. you can not travelling around whole day carrying medium format camera (it will break your neck) or trying to stabilize your tiny camera in your hand. When you have the camera that is suitable for you, you will feel comfortable to bring it all day long.

  • Clear and Bright viewfinder: when you often shoot macro, you'll know the difference...you can even manually focus your old lenses with ease if you have clear and bright view finder which increase amount of your successful picture (in-focus). 100% viewfinder coverage (no cropping) and high magnification is all you need, but it seems very rarely found any camera with this capability...even my D200:(

  • Backward compatibility: All nikon semipro (D200, D300, D300s etc) and pro (D2, D2x, D3, D3x) has full compatibility with their old manual lenses. Metering work flawlessly using those camera which is what i dream of when i move from D70s to D200. This is great feature which you cannot find in entry level DSLR (D70, D80, D90, D3000 etc.)

  • Focus adjustment: this feature give ability to fine tune your lenses focusing accuracy, this is a great feature which enable you to get clear and tack sharp picture every time using your autofocus lenses. Sadly...my D200 haven't got this feature yet, but D300 has it.

  • Dynamic Range: Every camera have their own ability in handling dynamic range, higher dynamic range will result in less contrasty picture (which is prominent in pro DSLR). This sometime make amateur photographer scratch their head. Yes...higher dynamic range will make your picture less contrasty, but it preserve more detail than your entry level DSLR which create punchy and full of contrast picture right out of the camera. With high dynamic range, you'll need to do further post processing to adjust the picture as you like. And believe me...the result will be more optimal than pre-set picture of entry DSLR. If you don't like post processing...buy entry level DSLR!

Other thing that sometimes people forget is Lenses and Tripod...

Your pro level DSLR body will end up wasted if you're using crap lenses!, the picture result will not be optimum.

Good lenses require special coating, special material (ED glasses, Aspherical element etc.) this element is expensive! Lower grade lenses doesn't have all this...that's why the picture result is harsh in gradation, dull in color and less sharp.

So we must remember to buy good lenses if we want great and optimal picture result!

For tripod...please read my previous article about tripod...but one thing you must remember, especially when you're a landscape photographer: Your picture will only be as good as your tripod:)





Saturday, 11 April 2009

Nikon 17-55mm f2.8 review

Well, finally i buy this lens to accompany my d200.
I sell my AF Nikkor 300mm f4 ED, AF Nikkor 50mm f1.4, and Nikkor 18-70mm f3.5 - 4 AFS...just to buy this lens.
I get this lens in second hand but very mint condition from JPC kemang (http://www.jpckemang.com/)

Well since the first time i get my hand on this lens, i feel that this lens is built to last until my grand grand children:) wow, professionally built...and after i test it with my d200...hmmm professional Image Result also...just what i expected from $1000 lens hehehehee
It gives very good detail in short distance...even the veins of the flower is revealed...awesomeeee sharpness
don't worry to use it on widest aperture, since it already give sharp and contrasty image since f2.8 !!!
many people wonder if they should take this lens or 17-35 f2.8 which also popular...
in my opinion, if you have DX format, go for this lens and you'll never regret your decision, good result, with additional reach.
The additional reach will be needed when you photographing models/ candid...it's very helpfull.
But if you have FX format...well you should go with 17-35 f2.8 of course.
Some people say the Tamron 17-50 f2.8 is cheaper solution, it also sharp...but i don't really like tamron's warm tone.
I prefer the nikon tone which is more natural.
The built quality also very different indeed...but if you're on a budget, go for Tamron...it will serve you well.



Nikon D200; 17-55mm f2.8@ 44mm f2.8; 1/1250; iso 200

sharp even wide open...professional indeed, look at the creamy bokeh & outstanding color



Nikon D200; 17-55 f2.8 @ 32mm f2.8 ; iso 100; 1/160 sec

the contrast is superb...no complain

Monday, 13 October 2008

Filters in Photography

I will only review some filters that I’ve been use for several years up to now.
In digital world, nearly every filter can be replaced by digital editing, but there are several must have filter that cannot be replaced by digital editing and it is important for us, especially landscaper and travel photographer.

Circular Polariser
This is a must have filter for landscape photographer, it cuts down reflection on water/ glasses, and make the sky more blue with popping clouds which is very nice effect that you cannot get by editing your picture in PS.
There is 2 type of polariser: linear polariser and circular polariser.
Don’t choose the linear type, because it will fool your camera lightmeter and cause faulty reading.
Always buy the best CPL you could afford, because cheap CPL performance is not too good…you might end up with uneven dark sky, harsh transition and less saturated result.
Several recommended CPL manufacturers are



B+W (http://www.schneideroptics.com/ecommerce/CatalogSubCategoryDisplay.aspx?CID=57)
Tiffen (http://www.tiffen.com/tiffen_filters.html)
Heliopan (http://www.heliopan.de/Heliopan-Filters.pdf)
and camera’s OEM CPL

Personally i use B+W kaesemann MRC filter, which has the kaesemann polarising foil…one of the best polirising filter you could get in the market, coated with nice MRC coating so it’s more resistant to scratch.


There is hoax that spread around photographer is that thick filter will cause vignette...My B+W polariser is normal one (not slim) and I never found vignette because of the filter (even @12mm tokina)...it is true that little bit of filter ring will appear in your picture, but i don't think the slim model will eliminate this.

Be aware that there is also warm polariser available in the market...be sure which one you want to buy...if you're not sure, just try it...and buy which one you like.
For me, i prefer the neutral one...I could add the warm tone later by modifying the white balance.

Here is nice effect produced from using circular polariser filter:

Look at the blue sky, we cannot get the fluffy white cloud without circular polariser filter

shooting through the aquarium glass without reflection would be impossible without CPL

Graduated ND
This filter is useful to minimise contrast difference between bright and dark area.
For example when you shoot sunset/ sunrise, you often end up with underexposed/ over exposed area due to high contrast difference and limitation of camera’s dynamic range.
With this lens you could get nice balance that could be recorded by camera’s dynamic range.
Don’t buy the circular screw in type, since its not flexible when you need to adjust the transition between dark and bright area…as you know, we rarely shoot landscape with horizon in the middle. And with circular type you cannot adjust its position.
Buy the P series type which available from several manufacturer: Hi-Tech, Lee, or Singh Ray
Here’s the example of Gradual ND usage to shoot sunset.




Imagine without Gardual ND, I will never get the bright and sharp stone for attractive foreground shot because the sky will be very bright and overexposed.

I heard Cokin create also Gradual ND filter, but they are not neutral...it cause your picture little bit grey, which i don't like very much.
Just choose how many stop you want to reduce the exposure: 1 stop, 2 stop or 4 stop.

Neutral Density filter
There are several occasion when you want to slow down the shutter speed to get the effect you want, but you cannot push it further because the aperture is already at its maximum. Then you need this ND filter to darken you object. By make your subject darker, you could make the shutter speed slower, and produce nice effect to your photo.
You could choose from 2 stop, 4 stop or even 8 stop reduction. Singh ray produce vari-ND filter so you adjust the stop reduction according your requirement, but the price is quite crazy.
There are many manufacturers which produce this filter:
o Cokin (P series)
o Hi-tech
o Lee
o Singh Ray
o Hoya
o Heliopan
o Tiffen etc.
Some cheap ND will result in unnatural image result with grey/ reddish cast, and I would not recommend it.
Here is one slow effect picture resulted by this nice filter.



So guys...Is there any other filter required? Hmmm…as far as I know, other filter effect now can be simulated in PS which is more easy and therefore you don’t have to bring bags of filter with you during hunting…especially color correction...absolutely no..no:)

So...happy hunting guys

Saturday, 11 October 2008

Choosing Tripod

Choosing tripod is mostly personal preference. You must compromise between sturdiness, stability, size, weight and cost.


Perfect tripod would be sturdy, compact, stable, light weight and cheap…and there's no such thing (at least up to now).

Cheap tripod often light weight and compact, but it sacrifices the sturdiness and stability which is the basic reason why you want to use tripod…to minimize vibration.

If you buy these toys…you can forget about using tripod, because you cannot get vibration free image. Minor vibration does exist because of the equipment shutter movement. I have been using cheap tripod before moving to my Manfrotto…and I tell you that the difference is clear.

Expensive tripod usually made of carbon fibers or basalt. It offers sturdiness, stability and medium weight.

For me…I choose to sacrifice the weight, I buy aluminium tripod from Manfrotto (055 ProB). Alumunium tripod have good sturdiness and stability, not too expensive, but quite heavy…at least with this tripod, you could consider photography as sport and you could train you muscleJ


The size is also not compact…around 60-70 cm when folded. I really wish it could be folded to be more compact and put it on my bags, so I don't have to carry it separately all the timeL

Another consideration in buying tripod is the maximum and minimum height…landscaper and macro photographer usually need lowest possible tripod to get their photo subject.

There is also part of tripod that also important, which is the head…when you buy tripod, usually this is not included, so you have to buy it separately.

There are 3 types of head:

  • Ball head



  • Pan and Tilt head
  • Wimberly head (usually used only for long tele lenses)

I prefer ball head type because of its flexibility; you could move the head in all direction easily with only turning one knob.

Pan and Tilt is just too many handles for me.

Some old player which already well known as tripod manufacturer:

If you want a quick setting, easy to carry and practical...but sacrifice bit of steadiness. Just try Monopods...

If you want clear, sharp image and optimum image result...use tripod




Image sample, taken using Manfrotto 055 ProB tripod + Nikon D200

Shutter speed: 1.3 second